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Help with a large circular tank--Pics

 Post subject: Help with a large circular tank--Pics
PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 10:47 am 
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I'm trying to make a large, open-topped tank, roughly 9-12 inches across. I have some foamboard, but it really doesn't roll well, even around that big a circle. I could use some cardboard, but I'm looking for a tank wall thickness of around a 1/4". Any suggestions?

(I plan to have a walkway across the top, some structural 'steel' inside, and possibly some broken tank walls, allowing ground level access)

Thanks!

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Last edited by Adoni-Zedek on Tue Jul 28, 2009 10:20 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 11:19 am 
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the only thing I can think of is to go to one of those shops where they sell water pipes and other construction material and beg for some scrap of pipes the height you need and the size you need...

because going round with cardboard or foamboard is just asking for pain...


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:42 am 
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Note: The following post assumes that both you and I agree with Ciabs above.

To "roll" foamcore, a little math is involved. First, you calculate the circumference of the piece you are building. Then, you calculate the inner circumference of the piece (generally speaking, the same calculation with a diameter of about 1/2" less).

Find the difference between the two, and divide by .0625 (or, 1/16). That's the number of 1/16th of an inch cuts you have to make on the inner surface of your foamcore to be able to bend it properly. Space them evenly across the length of your piece and slice out teeny little segments of just the top layer of card and foam. They can be little wedges, that's fine.

Stand your piece up, roll it between your hands to the desired curvature, and pin it down to a circular base. The interior will have those little slits, but you could plaster over it with spackle or paper over it with regular paper to hide some of the seams.

To give a sense of what this nightmare ends up looking like on paper, we'll try it with a 9" diameter pipe.

9" diameter means a 28.27" circumference. We'll call it 28 1/4" for sanity. The inner diameter, less the thickness of foamcore on either end, will be 8 5/8", so a circumference of 27" (-ish). The difference between the two is 1 1/4".

This calls for a 20 1/16" slices, spaced every 1 3/8" (as 27" divided by 20 is 1.35). Cut all those little bits, and the foamcore will actually roll.

And no, I didn't develop the technique. It's used in woodworking and steel to make circular frames out of one solid piece. Imagine welding each of those little pinch points after rolling the piece into its desired shape... Ugh.

So... my advice? Remember this trick for rounding the corners of buildings (when you only have to cut six or eight little slits) and go with Ciabs advice with the drain pipe.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 10:12 am 
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Thanks, Jalinde! That certainly looks like more work than I want to go through if I don't have to. I'll see if I can track do a local pipe shop. (Thanks Ciabs!)

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 10:22 am 
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Also try a carpet store. Sometimes they get carpet on cardboard tubes that are that big. They might let you take one ( could be pretty long ) or they might let you cut a piece off of one.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 10:34 am 
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I would go to a building supply store like Home Depot, they sale tubular concrete forms made out of cardboard, I am sure you could find one in a 12" diameter that would work great.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 12:55 am 
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anyway whoa jalinde, I just loved your tutorial..! :D

I'm always on about going cardboard/foamboard, and even if what you mentioned is just orrendously laborious I loved it nonetheless :)


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 11:55 am 
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also industrial shrink wrap (cling film to me and you) has a thick cardboard pipe like centre. If you live near an egg farm you can get them there (i live on onw myself)

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 10:16 am 
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Well, I just hit up a carpet place, and the rolls they come in on are no bigger than about 5 inches. Too small. As I recall from my days working in a warehouse, shrink-wrap comes on a similarly sized cardboard tube. Next I'll try to locate a PVC pipe place. If that fails, I'll try Home Depot.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 7:04 am 
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I finally found a small section (about 8" diameter) of concrete form (Thanks, DeathHammer!), and went to work building my clarifier. And here it is:Image
And with a Sister of Battle for scale:
Image
It obviously still needs some painting, and I may try to add a bit of 'liquid' to the interior. First I need some grey primer, and I want to paint the steel frame and central column before gluing them in place. Then I need to put a walkway across the top. I also have a 12" concrete form, so I may try building a larger one.

Here's a large platform I've put together, in a group shot with my pringles tower:
Image
Now if I could only get my hands on some Necromunda Bulkheads....

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 9:45 pm 
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Wow looking at that last pic, your terrain gets pretty tall. Most of my terrain is at the 4" or 8" level, similar to your pringles can setup. Actually a decent percentage of my terrain is based on pringles cans, they are just so conveniently sized. Are most of your pieces tall and connected like that? I think that's how a necromunda board should really be, interconnected walkways all over, not just set pieces that you have to slog across the floor between.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 6:40 pm 
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I do try to build my buildings tall. There's no point in having a rule that if you fall more than 12" you're automatically out of action if you have no buildings 12" or taller. I'll have to take some pictures the next time I play. Most of my buildings are currently built of lego, which has both pluses and minuses. I've got a large supply of foam board, and I'm slowly working on replacing the lego ones with permanent ones built of foam board and other materials. I also acquired a large number of necromunda bulkheads off ebay, and I've been cutting up cereal boxes and the backs of paper pads to make platforms and walkways, and I've recently created a dice-rolling tower inspired by Weagmacht's. Although I'm thinking I may need to get some rubber pads on the bottom so it won't slide around on the gaming table.

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Last edited by Adoni-Zedek on Sun Jan 17, 2010 7:06 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 8:19 pm 
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Nice work there A-Z, puts a little spin on a common terrain piece.

Also, huge kudos to jalinde for best post I have read here in a long time.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 7:23 pm 
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Ravendas asked for more pictures, so here they are:
Image
Image
Image
Image
You may notice that there is not a huge amount of cover at ground level. We noticed this almost immediately, and once my opponent got his two heavy bolters properly positioned in opposite ends and elevations of his deployment zone, my movement was pretty much locked down. I typically do a better job of placing obstructions, but somehow spaced it this time.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 8:47 pm 
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Now thats a proper Underhive set up! Loads of bridges and towers, Im jealous I wish my terrain had that much height and walk ways !

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